Notes to my future self

1. Urea nitrate. Read up on Haber process.

2. The reason to buy individual panelling over sheets of wainscotting is because it's possible to adjust the individual panelling per piece to accommodate for walls being non-vertical. With a sheet-form, you have one cut to get it to work out.

3. Liquid Nails adhesive caulk-style tube was blocked at the end because the stuff had dried -- visibly, through more than half the nozzle. Wrapped 14ga wire around screwdriver into tight coil, pulled in vise waaay out to form a long thin spiral like a corkscrew, drove that into the dried caulk mixture, pulled out with vise-grips. Worked very well, saved an almost-full stick of structural adhesive.

4. When working with synthetic/composite fake-wood materials, always use edge-cutting drills rather than standard twist drills: they won't rip out at all. Also start holes on front (paint) side so the departure tear-out will be on the back side.

5. Hole-saw hole offset, need to redrill. Grab bit of scrap plywood, shoot hole saw through it. Screw plywood onto wall, use hole in plywood as external guide bearing for holesaw. Don't try to hold the plywood in place by hand: you're not strong enough.